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Big-Wave Surfing

Cycling Maui’s Roads Is Kai Lenny’s Recovery Method

A Champion Surfer’s Life-Threatening Injury

What It Takes to Surf Big Waves

A Near-Death Experience in the Waves

Kai Lenny Is The Definition of Waterman

Proof That a Good Wipeout Can Be Beautiful

Big Wave Surfer Emily Erickson on the Importance of Failure
A Near-Death Experience in the Waves
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Phenomenality, from Lucas Jatobá, profiles big wave surf pioneer and gifted storyteller Ric Friar as he relives a near-death incident in Newport, Australia.